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Why I Use Aperture Priority Mode

It occurs to me, as I write these articles on photography techniques, that I often instruct on what YOU should do. That’s all good and well. I mean…that’s why you’re here, presumably, to learn how YOU can get the most out of your camera.

Occasionally, however, it’s good to know what techniques, equipment, or settings that other photographers use and why.

goal in the trees by Damien Franco

Why I Use Aperture Priority Mode

Truth be told I probably have my camera set to aperture priority mode 95% of the time. In fact, I’m willing to bet, without looking, that my camera is set to it right now, as it’s resting on my bookshelf beside me. *checking* Yep. It is.

Aperture priority mode works for me because, as a contemporary art photographer, I much prefer to control my depth of field by dictating which f-stop to use in any given situation. I want to control how the scene looks to the viewer by controlling what is in focus and what isn’t. This allows me to guide the viewer to the focal point of the image.

I want to depict a scene with shallow depth of field and let the camera dictate what shutter speed is appropriate for the scene.  Sure, sometimes I have to adjust, but that’s part of being a creative photographer.  Sometimes my camera is setting the shutter speed at 1/25th of a second and I have to decide if I need to open up the aperture more or bump up the ISO.

Because I know how my camera makes these decisions I’m able to manipulate the camera starting with one point of the equation triangle (ISO) then adjusting another point for artistic purpose (aperture) while letting my camera tackle that last point in the equation (shutter speed).  It’s part art part science.

It’s what works for me.

I also inherited my father’s impeccably steady hand so hand holding slower shutter speeds doesn’t scare me a bit when I’m without a tripod.

There are times, admittedly, that I’ll use shutter priority or manual mode, but those times have become more and more rare as my needs, as a photographer, have changed.

But REAL photographers use Manual Mode!

There are many photographers out there on the Internet that will scream about how “Only REAL photographers use manual mode and if YOU want to be a REAL photographer you NEED to use manual mode”.

Give me a break!

Learning how to use your camera in full manual mode can most certainly help make you a better photographer by giving you a better understanding of the exposure equation and more. I highly recommend that you, as a person learning photography, try exercises where you tackle the world for one full week with your camera on manual mode. You’ll learn much more about light and shutter speed that way than reading about it on photography blogs.

But that doesn’t mean you have to leave it there! Once you’ve learned why your camera, at ISO 200, in the early morning light, set to f5.6, is asking for a shutter speed of 100 you’ll be able to adjust accordingly. Need more depth but you’re hand holding an 85mm lens? You may need to bump up that ISO to 400 before you set your camera to f8 if you still want a sharp image.

These tools help you tackle various situations in various light and speed settings.

You can’t trust the camera meter!

Yeah, that one’s still floating around a bit as well. Seriously.

Let’s think for a second. Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Sony, etc haven’t been working on their sensors and meters continuously over the past decade out of sheer laziness. I mean, why would they? It’s not like they are competing for you dollars?!!

Our modern day cameras have insanely accurate light meters built in. And every model that comes out leapfrogs the previous ones.

I would be insane to spend all of that money on a new camera and not trust the light meter that’s built in.

Is the in-camera light meter always accurate for every given situation? No. You have to learn how and when you should adjust the settings once your camera has read the scene. That’s part of being a creative photographer rather than a someone who simply produces snapshots.

Let that expensive computer with a lens do some of the work it’s designed to do.

But make sure it’s doing what you want when you want. That may require learning how to shoot in manual mode first. But you knew I was gonna say that didn’t you?

So what about YOU?  What modes do you find yourself using most often and why?


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Related posts:

  1. How To Measure Light With Your Camera
  2. In Camera Light Meter
  3. Aperture, Shutter Speed, and ISO
  4. Finding the Right Creative Exposure
  5. The Exposure Equation

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About the Author: Damien Franco is a contemporary art photographer living in the deserts of West Texas. He likes long walks on the beach and thinks art is groovy.

  • Jennie
    I've always shot in manual and never been tempted by aperture because as you said "real photographers shoot in manual." However a couple of months ago I decided to shoot in aperture for a day. It wasn't so much that the photographs were better as that there were none that were over or under exposed and I was much faster.
    The only times I go back to manual now are when using flash and also if I'm worried about the light and don't want to end up with a really slow shutter speed. My main lens of choice is a 70-200 even for portraits so I can't go below 1/60th handheld.
    Jennie
  • Tiberman Sajiwan Ramyead
    Yes Jennie. It's my experience too now. But for sunsets and other nigh time shots I experiment with manual also, IF time allows. My motto at this stage, as a beginner, is to try everything so long as conclusions are reached; and they seem to move from truth to truth! The pros are right on one point though; you must know what you are doing. Manual forces you into that. I am beginning to think photography, per se, does not exist any more. This is the age of photoshopography; which I can hardly use.
    Tiberman - Mauritius
  • Guest
    My road to where I am now followed, pretty much, you're advice to a 'T.' I actually just kinda wanted to compare my reasons with someone else.

    I was kind of forced to use manual mode, as I spent very little money buying the next 3 lenses I got after my D80. All MF, non-CPU, non-metered lenses, which rendered all that built-in metering useless, thereby forcing me into a manual-using, shoot-n-chimping guy for about a year. Taught me a lot.

    Now, I've spent a bit more on some nice lenses, which allow me to use all the wonderful (and expensive...) features on my D700, which I shoot in Aperture, unless I'm using the flash, when I'll shoot in manual.
  • I usually use manual mode simply because I like the consistency. Usually there's one object in frame I want to get properly exposed, and I hate when moving my frame around can affect the exposure of what I really care about. I could exposure lock, but I find it easier to just dial in my exposure manually and then leave it there until something changes. This goes for everything from random objects to portraiture.

    However, if I'm shooting something fast or just taking my camera out somewhere I'll definitely go for aperture all the time. Manual exposure just won't cut it at a birthday party or something.
  • Anja Roberts
    VERY refreshing to hear something other than "manual only"! I originally started with my dad's old Ricoh which was set to AP, and I've found little reason to change, although I'm not afraid to use manual or SP as required. I also adore my tripod, so have no problem with giving something as low a shutter as it needs (when possible).

    Noticed many replies on light meters. Despite only switching to digital a few years ago, I must admit that I've gotten to the point where I often ignore light meter readings. The reason for this is that digital makes it so easy to set things up, snap a shot, have a look at the image and if not happy, adjust accordingly. Some might argue that this wastes time, but spur of the moment shots don't necessarily allow you the time to take light meter readings either, and for anything else there's usually a bit of time to spare. Plus, even though I believe in taking the best photo you can when you hit the shutter, many lighting problems can be fixed in the digital darkroom, whereas if you've managed to cut off uncle Joe's head, or caught the entire rear row of the family group out of focus, you've got a REAL problem on your hands!
  • Blake
    aperture priority 100% of the time for normal shooting. Motion shots on shutter priority. HDR on full manual with auto-bracketing.
  • Tiberman Sajiwan Ramyead
    When that sun is just rising or setting - and how fast it is for the DSLR beginner! - I see no solution other than the aperture mode. It allows faster change of settings every minute or so. Manual, I think, ends up giving you more or less the same combination on A-mode; if it didn't then every M-mode shot would come out wrong. Of course finally which ever mode one boasts, its the light during those golden am and pm hours that counts.
    Tiberman - Mauritius
  • Very nicely put.
  • Greg
    I too use AP most of the time. Unless.......I am shooting sports or live events where my goal is to show NO motion blur. For shutter priority outdoors in the daytime (think football and baseball games) I use from 640 to 1200 shutter speed. Night time live events (concerts) the same. But, and a big but, I use fast lenses. Nothing slower than f/2.8. In fact, if I were writing this article it's be named "Why I spend more for fast lenses!" I can't use flash at live events. Now, with the ability to shoot at ISO's of 6400, I can get the shots. IMO, this changes the game totally. Fast lenses coupled with the best low noise sensors? Forget about it! AP for portraits and minimal action. SP for live action/sports.
  • Exactly. Different scenarios require different settings for different results.
  • I shoot Manual 90% of the time - mainly in controlled situations (indoors) and also when I use a flash. The 10% is reserved for occasions where I shoot in environments with continously changing light levels, e.g daylight, outdoors, travelling, etc. I like to be in control of my camera, and it's nott hat I don't trust the lisght meter, but e.g. it'll rightfully want to correct for a backlit scene when my intention is to silhuette it - trial an error with exposure compensation will take more time than with manual too. And I agree, learning the triange an equation of ISO, f-stop and speed is key to understanding light.
  • Indoor studio setups are a perfect example of where Manual settings are practically a MUST! A controlled studio setting is where I learned all my "technical" photography skills. If I were still a studio photographer I'd be along the same ratio as you. Maybe 50/50 with weddings.
  • GaryK
    I also use aperture priority mode for much the same reason. I often fiddle with the light meter, giving the built in Olympus "ESP" a try and then trying the spot metering, aiming at different parts of the composition to see what it has to say about things. If I am happy with the aperture but have speed to burn on the shutter, then I will lower the ISO and that will bring the shutter speed down as well. Just because you aren't using full manual doesn't mean you aren't taking advantage of the camera's features. It's just a way of working that gets you going for a "decent" shot. And you can fine tune from there.
  • I like that you mentioned how you use spot metering to see what the camera's light meter is saying about things. I do the same thing.
  • Personally I use manual ALL the time. I've been creating photographs for well over 30 years, I started early), and I learned in manual mode. With the experience I have it's a simple matter for me to make whatever manual adjustments are needed to create the image I imagine: everything in sharp focus, selective focus, etc.
  • It's all about whatever works for you. Because you learned, and have worked in manual for that long, it would only slow you down to NOT use the modes and settings that have become second nature to you.

    I learned in manual mode as well. In fact, shooting in AV, is something I started doing as a wedding photographer when I got my new Canon 30D 4 years ago. I had been shooting all manual since 1995 when I picked up my first camera. Truthfully, I don't know that I would be shooting AV now if I hadn't taken a workshop for wedding photographers on that topic. It greatly improved my speed and flexibility as a wedding photographer and that has translated seamlessly into the work that I do now.
  • Agreed, when I'm shooting landscapes or something that's not likely to move, I'll go to Manual mode and play around with the different exposure settings and see which really works for the scene. But when I'm photographing a wedding, I'm almost always in Aperture mode, as any wedding photographer will tell you, "just get the shot" and shooting in Aperture mode will get the job done for me most of the time.
  • CFrank
    I shoot in Program a lot. I'll move it over to Manual once I get a good feel for the ISO and SS, but I'm going to try AV now. :)
  • I think you'll get more creative control out of AV. Just play with it for a while. If it's not what works for you then at least you'll have another tool in your tool belt if the need should arise.
  • Naive.

    Well, I used to like a lot AV mode until I discover how bad metering mode can be just for a simple fact:

    "different materials have different light reflection qualities" and a photographer must pay attention to the light, you know, the camera is just a tool.

    Metering modes don't lie, they are just limited to meter specific areas of your image. So that's a wrong approach.

    Try shooting under very lowlight conditions and the metering mode can block your shutter. That's why I use manual mode, because I know when is enough light for me, I don't care if the camera tells me something different.

    Your best metering tool is your eye.
  • Just so you know. Starting a comment with "Naive" doesn't often get you far in life.

    Different materials offering differing levels of reflection can most often be overcome by using the different metering modes for different situations.

    AND we had already discussed the need of manual control when shooting in low light conditions in the earlier comments.

    Sorry, but the "best" metering tool is NOT your eye. While YOUR judgment on whether or not the image is suitable for YOUR needs, your eyes constantly adjust to intensity and color of light thereby rendering it an inconsistent tool. And ANY tool that is inconsistent is, by definition, not the BEST tool.
  • Oh good! I'm not alone! Depth of field is my main concern, then ISO, then shutter speed. And I also fiddle with the other settings to get the results I want. I may not always know what the settings are called, but I know what they do (like the components of a well structured sentence, I don't always know my adjective from my adverb) but I know what works. So -- 90% on aperture priority, and happily so!
  • Good analogy. If you've read enough of the articles I've written you'll also notice I'm not the most technically skilled writer, but I think I get my point across (most of the time).
  • Kim
    I shoot 95% of the time in M mode.. only because I shoot in low light situations and I feel that I have a better grasp on the camera when I shoot M.. Having said that.. I shoot A mode when I have downtime and I am shooting for myself.. Great article, it shows that if you know your camera and understand light.. shooting in A mode is not cheating at all..
  • Thanks. I think you sum it up well. If you know your camera and understand light AV isn't cheating. I like it.
  • The vast majority of my photography is taken in very poor light (poor floodlights at best) and the subjects are usually moving pretty fast (snowboarders on a dry slope). For this reason I tend to go fully manual (1/200 : F4.0 : ISO100) with flash (obv.) at about 1/4 impulse power. Results are good to excellent. All other times I'm with you; tripod and Av...
  • Certainly for your shooting situations (low light, fast moving subjects) manual would be the best mode. What kind of floodlights are you using?
  • 85% manual, 15% Av here. I shoot Av when I have a good reason to (ie. no flash required to fill flash a subject's face) but I have much more overall control on manual so most of the time I shoot that. I don't think "always" is ever the best answer. For me, the situation dictates the mode. I shoot what it requires. Tell THAT to your "real pros only shoot manual" friends. ;)

    ~A real pro with another opinion.
  • You said it perfectly.

    "I don't think "always" is ever the best answer."
  • John
    I agree with most of what you said, but I've found that shooting almost all cameras in canon's current lineup, almost all the light meters were garbage and never correct. and to be honest, you're point that the the companies spend money making them better doesn't change the fact that they're still not good enough IMO... and I can think of a lot of companies that poor money into r&d and still have problems... (toyota?)
  • You bring up good points. I've heard many Canon photographers complain about that very issue although I shoot Canon and I have very few complaints.

    I suppose that stating that the current technology is "still not good enough" is a matter of relativity. Good enough for what or for whom? Good enough for the thousands of highly paid professionals in some of the toughest industries who probably scrutinize their pixels more than anyone else? You have some of the most sought after photographers in any industry using a myriad of equipment from various companies printing images that wrap buildings.

    We all have different needs from our cameras. I guess what I'm saying is: If it's good enough for them it's good enough for me.
  • Thank you! I have been shooting in Aperture Mode and have been told I should only shoot in manual. It's nice to hear somebody say it out loud :)
  • I think the competitiveness from some photographers just gets the best of them.

    Photography is a really funny hobby/vocation because you're mixing art and science. There are creative-artistic-shoot-from-the-hip-whatever-gets-the-image photographers and there are very technical-meta-data-loving-geotagging-measure-everything photographers. I think most photographers rest somewhere in the middle. I also think that when you have two photographers from the extreme spectrum in one room they mix as well as oil and vinegar sometimes.
  • I'm also probably 90-95% in Aperture mode, because most of the time, how much DOF I want is the first decision I make when taking a photo.

    if I want to take multiple shots and ensure the same exposure, then I switch to manual
  • Depth of field is the first thing I think of as well. It's often determined by how many "subjects" or points of interest there are in the picture and how I want them to interact with each other.
  • Without exception it's ~75% Aperture mode and ~25% Manual. I haven't yet put my camera on anything else. Those two just work for me. And I use Aperture the most for pretty much the same reason as you - DoF.
  • It's all about using what works.
  • Tim
    Bingo. "What works" is exactly right.

    I used to use a Nikon D200, where the matrix metering was utter crap. I'd take two photos out in the field (landscape work) and switch straight back to fully manual with centre-spot (AF and metering) only. Remember this for later: I used to be one of the more ardent "M for everything" people out there, given the limitations of my equipment. Also note that sometimes I'd vary A for the sake of exposure whilst keeping S fixed, and vice-versa; the intersection of use of these parameters with the scenes in front of me was not simple - the only fixed thing was ISO, which obviously one keeps down as low as possible to minimize noise.

    Then I acquired a Canon G9, and slowly but surely the joys of P-mode and its intelligent metering and AiAF won me over. For walking the dogs, it did the job 95% the time. Also, it stored settings (eg flash on/off/auto/power, jpeg processing such as bw) on a per-mode basis, so I had bracketing on custom 1 (for HDR) and bw preview on custom 2 (all manual, centre-spot, default to 1/250th at f/4). I could rely on the live histogram view as a sanity-check for exposure, as if that were the be-all and end-all.

    Now I have an EOS 550D, and am staying in primarily P mode with occasional detours to CA and M. You can do what you need in P: vary (offset) the exposure, bias toward a given aperture or shutter speed, as you want. Its sense of exposure is frequently fine, its choice of parameters fine, its results excellent.

    Where is this going? Well, I think CA-mode points toward the right philosophy. What matters is your artistic pre-vision, your idea of what you want from the photo. You might approach a scene saying "I want [this-much] separation of subject from background", or "I want to avoid all motion-blur" (some sports/motion work). The required aperture might vary depending on the lens's capabilities or focal length: you can't simply say "f/2.8 will give me subject separation" blindly, or "f/4 is the lens's sharpest behaviour" without consideration of the scene. That's where these semi-auto modes come into their own, in helping lift you out of a slavish misplaced attention to "the three core parameters", and letting you concentrate on your art, from some kind of "effects priority" mentality, instead.

    Or just say "use what works". That's more succinct.
  • Tiberman Sajiwan Ramyead
    Yes Tim - as a beginner with an entry level Nikon D3000 my motto seems to be converging on that "use what works". Sometimes I take the exact same shot with auto - after a fantastic manual - and the result is practically the same. My daughter, who is a professional applied artist, convinces me to master manual first. Still, I have just discovered that for sunsets for instance, "use what works"!
    Tiberman - Mauritius
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